1. The Long Dark Grey Mother Storage
2. The Long Dark Crafting

1. What You Need to Know about Long-Term Book Storage The Closetbox Team. July 15, 2016 There are two things that are common to pretty much all long-term book storage: the books are not going to be handled everyday, and they tend to have considerable worth that demands higher-quality storage units.
2. If you need to use your emergency supply, store open water containers in a refrigerator or cold location. Use an open container within 3 to 5 days in the refrigerator, 1 to 2 days in a cold room, or a few hours in a warm room. After that, purify the remaining water again by boiling it or adding chlorine.

Also, when passing through the middle of the map, find a building with a locker and stuff half your load in it. That way, you've made storage.

The Long Dark is a hardcore first-person survival title from Hinterland Games, currently available on Xbox One and Steam. After a long period in Game Preview, it's finally here, and it's full of great content, is a wonderfully challenging and beautiful game. It's among my personal favorites on the console right now.If you're looking for something new and challenging, here's how to start your love affair with The Long Dark. What is The Long Dark?The Long Dark is first and foremost an explorative survival adventure, featuring deep gameplay systems that'll have you hooked for weeks, if you go in with the right state of mind. The Long Dark puts you in control of the sole survivor of a plane crash in the Canadian wilderness, following a global geomagnetic disaster.

The details of exactly what went wrong are scant, but you'll find out the truth in the game's episodic story mode, currently dubbed 'Wintermute.' In The Long Dark, animals are unnaturally aggressive, abnormally harsh blizzards ravage the land, and the only humans you will find are frozen corpses. The sandbox mode offers varying levels of difficulty and a range of large maps crammed with opportunities for exploration.

Quick Facts. The Long Dark features large sandbox areas that are connected.

More are being added as time goes by. It has a deep crafting system that is very demanding, but very rewarding. It has dynamic day, night and weather cycles, and they all play an important part in survival. You can leave feedback on the game at. The game also has a friendly community on.Finding that single crucial rifle round, a box of matches or the final component for a complex crafting schematic makes The Long Dark a persistently rewarding experience, and it's available for a reasonable price on both Steam and Xbox One.

I'd argue it's among the best $20 you can spend on Xbox One right now.Vital InformationBefore jumping into the challenging sandbox mode, it's probably best that you head into the game's story mode first. Wintermute will introduce you to game mechanics one by one, serving as a narrative-driven tutorial before going head first into the long dark of The Long Dark.Playing on survival mode's Voyager (normal) difficulty, you will find that the first few nights are the hardest.

Rainbow six vegas download free. Supplies are low, and you might appear a significant distance from any form of shelter. The first thing you need to do is learn the controls. Learning what you can do at the outset is very important. You can view the controls by going to the options menu. Most of my notes will refer to the Xbox One version in this guide, but you can customize keyboard controls at will on the PC version.

The Long Dark Grey Mother Storage

Next, prioritize your vital stats. The Long Dark has a minimalist UI to maximize immersion. You can view your statistics at any time by pressing the Menu button.Note: All vital stats decrease both in real time and when you take actions that speed up the passage of time. When you break down a log for wood, for example, it will usually tell you how long it will take, and how many calories your action will burn. This won't account for changes in the weather, however. I've nearly frozen to death because I underestimated how fast my temperature would drop while harvesting a deer carcass.

Here are your vital statistics that you need to manage. We'll get into how to keep them at safe levels in the next section. Condition: Think of your condition as your hit points.

When it reaches 0 percent, it's game over. And in The Long Dark, death is permanent. Temperature: This is arguably the most important stat to manage, as it will deplete your condition faster than other statistics.

The time of day, weather, wind speed and being wet can all affect your temperature. We'll get into how to stay warm in the next section. Fatigue: While being tired won't impact your condition as harshly as being freezing cold, you can collapse as a result of fatigue, which is something you do not want to occur. Particularly outdoors.

Thirst: This is another stat that is particularly dangerous to ignore, but relatively easy to maintain. Drinking safe water often is crucial. Hunger: You can get away with being hungry for quite a long time, but it's still important to keep those calories topped off.The First NightYou can spawn randomly anywhere on the region you select when you create your new sandbox. Part of the fun of The Long Dark is exploring, discovering new locations, and finding those crucial items you need, so I won't give you too many pointers.The first thing you should do is check your current status.

If you're in the middle of a blizzard, getting into shelter as soon as possible is a priority. You can't make fires in the middle of a blizzard, because the wind will be too high. If the weather and 'feels like' temperature isn't too low, there's not as much reason to panic. Sometimes the most dangerous thing in The Long Dark is ignoring how long it takes to do stuff. Nearly killed myself harvesting meat, lol. — Jez (@JezCorden)Presuming you start at Mystery Lake, which is where all beginners should start, there are various cabins and other interior locations you can use as a 'base' shelter while you gather enough materials to move forward. Getting to the lake the region is named after can be a chore, however, particularly in the first couple of nights.

Mystery Lake is a large frozen water mass, complete with a visitor's center and tourist cabins. You'll recognise it from the game's title screen. The location is hard to describe because there are no maps, and indeed, Mystery Lake isn't the only base you can find, far from it. Exploration is key, but managing the risk of doing so is also important. Gather sticks.

You will start with the means to start a fire, which includes both tinder, matches and fuel. Sticks can be found all over the ground, typically near trees. Sticks and branches respawn over time, particularly after heavy winds and blizzards. Remember that breaking down larger sticks will burn calories, so be careful.

You can also create tinder from sticks in the inventory screen.Create fires using the radial menu. You can place them anywhere on the ground near you on flat terrain. Use fires to build up warmth to survive outdoors on your way to a more permanent shelter.Boil water by selecting the fire. Boiled water is safe to drink, and it's super important to have a consistent clean water supply as you travel.

You can also use fires to cook food once you get it. Don't worry too much about food. You can survive hunger for a longer amount of time than other stats, although it will compound how fast your condition decreases.

Mystery Lake's most abundant source of easy food is cat-tail plants, which grow near frozen rivers and lakes. Human dwellings tend to have tins, chocolate bars and other sources of calories, until you find the means to hunt animals. Place a bedroll to sleep. You can sleep outdoors on a bedroll, but beds indoors are obviously the better option.Check your inventory. On Voyager difficulty, you will start with some rudimentary supplies. Most items can also be broken down to create other crafting materials.Check your clothing. You can equip two layers of clothing to enhance your ability to withstand the cold.

This makes exploration gradually easier, giving you the ability to withstand low temperatures and the game's wind chill factor.Explore. Don't be afraid to explore, even if it means dropping your condition levels to do it. New locations will have important items like guns, bullets, hatchets, tin openers, and various other valuable gizmos for surviving at higher levels.Experiment! You can interact with the game's world in many intuitive ways. Once you gain a hatchet, you will be able to break furniture down into reclaimed wood or cut up carcasses for meat, leather and entrails. Dropping items like hides and guts indoors allows you to dry them out, which is necessary for certain crafting recipes, such as a hunting bow. Use the game's notebook The Long Dark's radial menu also offers a journal, which allows you to make notes.

This can be useful for keeping track of stored items, the locations of crafting tables, and more.The Long Dark's primary hazard is the environment itself, which mercilessly tries to kill you with its onslaught of wind and ice. But there are also dangerous animals to be aware of.

WolvesWolves seem to be the most abundant animal threat in the game. Wolves like to attack from behind. Sometimes you can simply outrun them, and then turn and face them down while backing away. You can use light sources, like flares or firebrands to frighten them away too. If you're using a weapon, aiming it at the wolf will generally prompt them to attack, so you'd better land your shot!

Wolf meat can be eaten, and their hides can be used to craft powerful clothing. The Long Dark on Xbox One is super fun, super subtle. Love emergent gameplay moments. Solid even in Game Preview.

— Jez (@JezCorden)If you get bitten by a wolf, you can generally fight it off. If you have a weapon like a hatchet, you can even injure them in the process, which often leads to them bleeding out and dying later on.

Headshots are a guaranteed kill on wolves, while other shots will cause them to flee and bleed out. They also leave a blood trail, so you can track them down. Wolf bites need to be healed via the first-aid radial menu option. Bandages and disinfectant will heal you fully. If you get infected, you will need antibiotics and bedrest to survive.

Wolf attacks will also damage your clothing. BearsAvoid bears, at all costs. Being hit by a bear will take 75 percent off of your current condition, and will one-hit kill you if you're already struggling.

Bears will also shred your clothes, leaving you exposed to the cold. Bears appear in both the day and the night. Bear problems — Jez (@JezCorden)Bears can take way more punishment than wolves, but a headshot with a rifle will put them down, too. Bears will also bleed out over time if you injure them enough. Like wolf attacks, bear attacks need to be healed with bandages and disinfectant, and you'll also end up spending a lot of cloth and leather to repair any damage to your clothing.If you do have to get in range of a bear for whatever reason, you should begin backing away. Bears will curiously saunter towards you, and eventually rear up on their hind legs and charge.

If they see you aim a weapon, they will also charge, and you will probably die. Bears roam around an area for a few in-game hours and then move on. Have fun!The Long Dark is an incredibly deep game, and discovering how it all works is part of the fun. These pointers should help you get started without ruining the experience of discovery.

The game is designed for multiple playthroughs, giving you information on how well you survived each time.The Long Dark has regular Xbox achievements, but also has feats for achieving certain goals (viewable via the menu), which can provide passive bonuses on new playthroughs. This can be handy as you attempt the higher, more punishing difficulties, including the brutally challenging Interloper mode.If you're a fan of survival adventures, The Long Dark is among the best on Steam and certainly on Xbox One. I cannot recommend it enough.

Like a fine wine cellar or whiskey barrel, cannabis is best when aged in a cool, dark place, and while there is no steadfast expiration date for cannabis, there are a few key elements to consider when storing cannabis for any extended period. Ideal Temperatures for Storing CannabisMildew and other molds on cannabis and other organic matter, so basic precautions of keeping your cannabis in a cool, dark place will go a long way. Excessive heat can dry out the and that have taken months to develop. When these essential oils get too dry along with plant material, it can result in a hot, harsh smoke. Lower temperatures also slow the process of decarboxylation of cannabinoids, the process that transfers THC-A into the psychoactive THC and eventually degrades into the less desired.

Additionally, warm air holds more moisture than cold air, which brings us to the next consideration. Humidity Factors for Cannabis StorageHumidity control is paramount to keeping mildew and other mold contaminants away from your cannabis.

Keeping your cannabis stored in a controlled environment with the proper relative humidity (RH) ranges can be a bit of a balancing act, but the general consensus is to keep cannabis between when stored to maintain and enhance color, consistency, aroma, and flavor. Keeping your RH below 65% reduces the chances for mold to occur. However, if your RH drops too low, you risk your becoming brittle and drying out the essential oils. Light Settings for Storing CannabisHarmful UV rays break down many organic and synthetic materials. Similar to the way your grass turns brown at the end of a long sunny summer, or how a car’s paint begins to fade when it is not garaged, UV rays will degrade your cannabis over time.A concluded that light was the single biggest factor in the degradation of cannabinoids.

The same study concluded that cannabinoids maintain stability for up to two years when stored under the proper conditions, though it can remain effective and safe to consume for much longer as the essential oils slowly break down over time. Storing your cannabis out of direct light will also help you control the temperature. Air Control for Cannabis StorageWhile cannabis needs oxygen during growing and curing, storing your cannabis in a container with just the right amount of air is crucial to keeping it fresh and true to its original form. Having too little air can greatly affect the relative humidity, especially if the buds are not completely dried before storage.Too much air, on the other hand, will speed up the degradation process as the cannabinoids and other organic matter are exposed to oxygen. There are a variety of hand and electric vacuum pump attachments available for canning jars that will help you minimize oxygen exposure. How to Store Your CannabisDo – store out of direct sunlight in a cool, dry placeDo – store in containers with a neutral charge, like glass jars.Do – use or products like to monitor and control RH levelsDo – vacuum seal jars and containers to minimize oxygen exposureDo – separate your strains to maintain their individual flavor profilesDo – look for the many exciting new ways to store your cannabis. The cannabis industry is growing every day, with new products and companies like and designing solutions for all of your cannabis storage needs.

How Not to Store Your CannabisDon’t – store in the refrigerator. The fluctuations in humidity and temperature can actually increase your chance of mold and mildew.Don’t – store in the freezer.

Freezing temperatures cause the fragile trichomes to become brittle and break off like little icicles when handled.Don’t – store in plastic bags or containers. Plastic often has a static charge that can attract precious trichomes. If you must use a plastic bag, only use it for short-term storage of small quantities of cannabis.Don’t – store above or around electronics or appliances that give off heat. Heat rises — instead, store your cannabis in a low cupboard, shelf, or in the basement of your house, much like a wine cellar.Don’t – use a tobacco humidor.

Most use cedar wood, which has oils that transfer and can influence the flavors of your cannabis. They also tend to employ sponges that use propylene glycol to regulate humidity and can oversaturate your cannabis.Don’t – store grinders, pipes, or other paraphernalia with your cannabis. The ash and resin from burnt cannabis tends to linger and will stink up any storage container. Also, it is simply good etiquette to keep your supplies separate and clean. Other Factors for Storing Your MarijuanaProducts infused with cannabis, such as and other perishable creations, will have different storage guidelines.

We do not recommend that you store these items for long periods of time. Follow the directions on the package and store your edibles similar to ordinary, food-based items.Alcohol and other cannabis seem to be less susceptible to mold and other contaminants due to the reduced amount of bio matter.

However, we still recommend following the basic guidelines outlined above to protect potency and minimize possible contamination. Good information especially useful to medical growers who produce more bud than can be immediately consumed. I’ve had legal med grows for a number of years, summer outdoors only. My outdoor plants have often yielded 8-16 z’s each times 4-6 plants so I’ve been experimenting with storage and prolonging the shelf life of bud for years, since this is entirely medical. I agree with the Do’s and Don’t’s here with one exception.

I store all my bud in a dedicated bud refrigerator that never gets opened except when I pull out a new working stash – so it’s rare for the bud to be exposed to light or someone rummaging through the fridge. I’ve discovered stopping short of drying bud entirely – leaving just a bit of moisture – then refrigerating at 42-45 degrees in mason jars works great. Bud I grind 2-3 years after harvest typically has a beautiful aroma. Right now I have still-great 4 yo trainwreck and 3 yo blue dream that still rocks!

This method works for kief, as well. So far I’ve never had bud go bad unless I screwed up and failed to securely tighten the lid on a mason jars. This article is correct, in my experience, that freezer storage eventually degrades bud. Of course glass or porcelain would be better but there’s no residue or odor given off of the amber colored plastic used to make medicine bottles that can seep into the Cannabis at all and I’ll stand by those words The same is true about the use the black and white photographic bottles. The plastic only needs to be “food safe”. If what you’re saying is totally true, I hope you don’t eat steak or other meats unless it’s wrapped in butcher paper and we all know butcher paper will not last in the freezer as long as plastic wrapped meats. Your glass jars should be “colored” as well.

The very best UV protective color is green and amber is next. I started working as a cook at the age of 13. The bit on NOT storing in a refrigerated environment, I come out of theprint industry and in high quality multi color imaging, humidity,temperature, and light at the UV end of the spectrum, are all aspectsthat must be closely monitored.

I have found that with my farming thereare a great deal of cross over factors.I agree that the device you use to keep your food fresh should not be usedfor chemistry storage, as it is overly cold, and accessed far to often.And there are safety issues.One would at this point in history be hard pressed to find a refrigeratorthat is not frost free. In that the appliance is equipped with the capacity toremove the moisture that is attracted to cold in a hot environment.I like to control my shop and it’s storage facility environments to the conditionsthat exist at about 15 to 30 feet under ground. So an ambulant temp of55 degrees + or – 2 degrees. RH of about 68, constant.So a heating device as well as a dehumidifier and a cooling device.And in the storage areas, dim light on an as needed bases.This is the criteria that I use for all of my critical storage needs. Suchas all medications, photographic supplies and it’s chemistry, chemistryfor most every thing that I use, dimension critical paper stock.I have been perfecting this over past decades, since about 1988.And has served me well. In the storage of any excesses of cannabis. Some useful information here, but I can clearly tell the article was written by someone with little to no growing experience.

I am old school. I learned before the internet and when grow/curing/storage information was limited – but very god – and difficult to obtain. Degraded tricomes do not produce harsh smoke, just a shitty high and unfavourable tasting smoke. Harsh smoke comes ENTIRELY from excess fertilizer/ poor flushing and improper curing methods.You are correct to say that tricomes are quite fragile, but storing in moderate temps for long periods – many months – will degrade the THC to headache-inducing canibinoids like CBN. The BEST way to store MJ long term IS refrigeration, or preferably freezing. The key to success with either is a proper dry and cure, and storage containers.

When the stems snap, moisture content is right. But proper curing is an art and requires constant monitoring. A controlled humidor-type device at about 68-70 degrees. A good cure can be obtained in about 2-3 weeks if done right. Curing is important after a proper dry to eliminate any residual nitrate and nitrite in plant material. Environment enzymes do their work and eat up what remains after flushing. Airtight storage containers, after dry and cure, put in a deep freeze will keep the product perfect for long periods.

Up to a year or even longer. I do not agree totally with this article, especially about freezing Cannabis when storing. I cure all my stock in those ceramic or porcelain buckled and have gasket rings containers often referred to as “canisters”.

After I’ve hung my plants and they start to crackle when bending the stalk, I cut the buds off, do my trimming and simply place them into the canisters closing the lids. I open those lids about every other day to allow the moisture to escape while curing.

This process requires a ton of patience because we’re all so anxious to start testing our efforts. After I’ve completed trimming and placing the buds in the canisters, I store them in a cool dry place. Ideal temperature while curing is 60 to 65 degrees but not as critical as some growers tend to report. Just do not store them in temps above 75 degrees at any time After about 3 months, I simply buckle them down and place them into a freezer set at 0 degrees.

The Long Dark Crafting

One very important thing to remember. When you decide to take a canister out of the freezer, it is VERY important to allow the canister and its contents to fully thaw before opening the canister as your frozen material will attract moisture in the air.

I wait at least one hour, leaving the canister at room temperature. Force heating the canister is not recommended. I am 61 years old this is not my first day at the curing Cannabis races. I have Cannabis in my freezer right now that’s at least 3 years old but I’ve had it frozen in the freezer for up to 5 years and the ONLY thing I have ever experienced is a very slight degradation if any at all.

This degradation is found on the very edges of the Cannabis that was exposed to the tiny amount of air left in the canister when it was placed into the freezer. The Cannabis below about the first quarter of inch of stock is just fine and will smoke up and look like it’s never been frozen.

It’s also perfectly okay to grab some stock and re buckle the lid and place it back into the freezer for further storing. Freezing Cannabis will cause the Trichomes to become brittle and some will break off if handled frozen. So it is important to try and not disturb the stock while it’s frozen, simple as that. Drying it or “boning it out”, will also cause the Trichomes to become brittle and break off but that can also be an advantage to those who prefer to make a very potent product called “Kief”. If you follow these really simple rules, I guarantee you’ll be able to store your stock indefinitely and it will hold its color and flavor like a million bucks.

Some plastic baggies are like bad gas lighters from the china seas gas fields. I do not know the chemical explanation but they deplete the weeds effectiveness, practically negate it altogether.There are other plastic baggies available that are not noticeably harmful to weed quality, I’ve use those with the Rite Aid store brand. I suppose most pharmacy store brands could be okay. I can not make promises though that such is the case.I think I read something on leafy about different kinds of plastics and how some are not good for storage of weed.I use the storage mostly that my purchase comes in lately unless I notice the smoke apparently has no depth, has lost body. Likely the plastic choice I then assume was not wise. Then I transfer it to said baggies.